Wed 6. [6 September 1899] Up at 3, chocolate and ready at 4, but we
waited till 4.30 for the light. Clear fresh starry night. Walked over
Èboulis, the tail of the glacier, frozen nÈvÈs and a shale slope and got
to the Col Lombard at 6. Up the rocks till 6.30 and rested till 7. Eat
prunes, skirts off, roped. Left our baggage and axes. Chilly. Off up
easy rocks, the Germans leading. They had on climbing boots with
string soles. Then a charming narrow couloir with a little snow in it.
Out into the sun and opposite the Aiguille Centrale which looked very
fine. Round a steep rock corner onto dalles which led us to the foot of
the mauvais pas. Conglomerate rock out of which little stones had
been washed, leaving holes for hands and feet. Mathon and I crept
along a ledge and I photographed the Germans, Paulcke climbing
onto Lohm¸ller's back. Then Mathon went up, I being unroped the
while, then I, roped again, over Marius's shoulders, 30 ft or so, up to
Mathon. Not difficult and very pleasant. Then I unroped and the rope
was thrown down to Marius who followed. All roped again and went
up over steep dalles and up an arete to the top. 8.15 Lovely view of
the Meije, the Ecrins and down the valley leading to Valloir [Valloire].
Off at 8.45 having eaten some chocolate. Very pleasant easy going
down. Found the Germans eating at our halting place, 9.10. I didn't
eat, but put on my skirt and we all resumed our baggage. At the Col
Lombard said goodbye to my Germans with great sorrow; they turned
off left across nÈvÈs and over a shale col to Valloir and St Michel.
Got to the refuge at 11.30, having exchanged shouts with my Germans
at the top of their col. Eat and slept till 1, down at La Grave 1.55. Nice
going down, with the Meije in front all the way. Found a card from the
Duplaa Lahittes saying how glad they were to have met me! Tea,
letters, wrote to Domnul and rested. No white man. Dined at a little
table by myself and read the Times outside till 9.