Fri. 27. [27 March 1896] At 9 came my Parlatrice, Signore Goullet,
quite nice, widow of a Frenchman. We talked Italian for an hour. Went
out in a Gondola (Jacopo 231) first to the photograph shop where we
found our plates had been put in upside down and spent an hour in
setting them right, then to S Maria Formosa where we saw a glorious
Palma Vecchio, the St Barbara - quite quite lovely, with an exquisite St
Sebastian in a side panel - this is the real great Venetian painting.
They say she was his daughter, the one with whom Titian was
supposed to be in love. Also a B. Vivarini which I thought good and
solemn. Then to SS Giacopo e Paulo - saw the gorgeous Colleone
statue by Verrochio outside - the pose of the condottiere, the throw
back of the right shoulder, the brows shaded by his helmet, the firm
and splendid face; and the movement of the horse all magnificent.
This is the real Florentine greatness out of which Michelangelo came.
Inside most of the pictured covered (Lent's an awful bore) but we saw
some stiff B. Vivarini saints in the choir and a beautiful Alvise V. Christ
bearing the Cross, a single {touching} poignant figure against a blue
background in the Sacristy. Also some beautiful tombs, 4 in the choir,
2 old simple ones very fine Doge Cornaro and Doge [space left
blank], 2 rococco, which I didn't like one being the celebrated
Vendramin which Ruskin hates so the one in which only half the doge
is carved. A beautiful simple Doge Steno and the great Doge
Mocenigo, high up with a curtain drawn back by 2 angels. Lunched at
the Vapore and home. Out at 4.30, called on Horation [sic] Brown out
and on Madame Wiel, out. Bought some paste and a copper pot with
which Papa is delighted. Found a note at home from Mr Brown asking
us to lunch on Sunday. Lovely sunset and moon.