Sun. 29. [29 March 1896] Windy and cold as was yesterday, but
sunny. The Grand Canal quite rough, the gondolas make a great
splashing under my window. To the Scuola di S Rocco where we
saw the great Tintoret Crucifixion - a picture one has to look at for a
long time and at last the central group with the Cross and the weeping
women and disciples starts out at one and is not lost again. On one
side splendid figures raising the cross of one of the thieves, on the
other nailing the half risen thief to his cross, lying upon the ground. In
the same room a magnificent Bearing of the cross, the figures winding
up a mountain path, the bowed Christ wonderfully poignant; over the
door a scourging, the Christ lying against a white cloth spotted with
blood and next to it a Christ in white straight robes standing up before
Pilate. To the Accademia for a few minutes - realised the Titian
Assumption, figures of the Apostles and the Madonna very noble;
exquisite Cima[?] Virgin enthroned, big G. Bellini, same subject and
delicious Carpaccio Circumcision with the nicest angels playing on
instruments below. In the 4th room some very nice Dianas - I wonder
who he is, and another Carpaccio with a nice female saint in. Lunched
with Horatio Brown where we met Lord Ronald Gower. Both charming,
talked of books. Mr Brown showed us a little book of Penn's given
him by L. Stevenson with charming inscriptions and a tiny book of
poems, paper covered, written at Davos [sic] and printed there by
Osborne. Very amusing. Home and at 4 out to tea with Madame Wiel
who lives in a lovely palace and is quite delightful. She told us many
interesting things about Crispi - how he is not straight, the Queen
needed ever so much persuading before she wd receive him. The
King mighty obstinate - refused to accept his resignation and won't
resign himself to Di Rudini and the peace. How the Prince of Naples
[Napoli] hurried up from Florence [Firenze] to persuade him and was
put under arrest in consequence! She took us out and we saw Marco
Polo's house, the Giorgione fresco on the Grand Canal, St James of
the Deep Stream, Aldus' house and the place where Tiepolo's
Column of Infamy stood. Very cold. Lit a fire. Dined at the Vapore.