Sun. 12. [12 April 1896] Grey morning soon turning to rain. Went out to
the Pieta and saw the great Moretto Christ in the house of the Levite -
such a Magdalen! There was a little nun with a white pointed profile
praying in the gallery in front of that gorgeous repentant sinner. Then
to San Francesco where at last I saw the Bellini but in a bad light.
Also a magnificent Resurrection - School of Giorgione, the master
himself, I believe. No one else cd have painted the sleeping soldier
with his face shaded by a feathered hat. Beautiful landscape much
blackened. Home where Mrs G. [Green] stayed to have a frugal
lunch and I lunched with the Wards. Went with them in gondolas to the
Lido while she went to the Edens. The white thorn was nearly over
and the peach blossom past its prime. Dorothy and I gathered
ranunculus and violets in my garden. Home to pack. Dined at home.
At 8.30 out by gondola with Mrs G. Mr W. Dorothy and Arnold to the
Iron Bridge where we tacked ourselves on to the lighted barge of the
Serenata and were towed up to the Piazza. All the ships hung with
coloured lights, the Emperor's a blaze of electric light. Rockets
across and across the sky. Suddenly the Piazza, the Riva, the Salute
and San Giorgio were all lit with red fire. The Campaniles of St Mark
and San Giorgio looked transparent with a red fire burning through
their open galleries. Then with green fire and just as the band was
going to play the Emperor's composition came a streaming
thunderstorm and we all hurried home as quick as we cd. In a minute
the Piazza and the basin of St Mark's were emptied - it was magical.
Home to a supper of milk and cake and so to bed.