Sat. 4. [4 April 1896] Out early, to St Mark's. The blessing of the fire
was just over. Followed the procession into the church. They carried
a 3 branch candlestick of which one candle was lighted. The other 2
they lighted one under each lamp. Went into the choir where we sat
just behind Sir Hubert Miller who gave us his book. Endless chanting
prayers by a priest in gold and embroidered garments. He stuck five
pods of incense into a big candle, in the shape of a cross. All the
candles and lamps were lit except the 4 on the altar. Then away to St
Zaccaria where we saw the ceremony of blessing the brazier and
lighting the candle and throwing the incense into the holy fire. On to
San Giorgio dei Schiavone where we looked at the Carpaccios
again. Back to St Mark's where we arrived just in time to see the
blessing of the font. Followed the procession up to the choir and
stood outside during an endless litany. Then the candles on the altar
were lighted, the organ pealed out, the voices rose in the Gloria, a
bell rang and suddenly the curtain behind the altar fell open and the
Pala d'oro shone out. A very splendid moment. Went down onto the
Piazza and took a gondola (Vittorio 42) he greeted us joyfully "Christ
is risen" he said "and you are the first people to come in my gondola.
It is very lucky." Went to San Giovanni e Paolo where we saw a
charming Cima? (or Carpaccio?) a Virgin with saints - the gloria had
just been begun as we entered and all the veils had fallen. The
Tintorettos are no longer here. San Grisostomo we couldn't get into;
on to San Giovanni Elemosinario where we saw a Titian picture of the
Saint, very gracious, and a S. del Piombo said to be fine but hung in
too bad a light. Then to San Cassano where over the altar a
Resurrection mostly hidden by an edifice over the altar, a most
curious and noble Crucifixion with the crosses to one side and the
horizon very low down, a Descent into Hell, black and quasi invisible,
all Tintoret. Also a fine Palma Vecchio. Then to Santa Maria dell
Orto, through a charming quarter and past Tintoret's house; by the
altar a magnificent Last Judgement, full of figures, and a Golden Calf,
difficult to see; in a side chapel, miracle of St Agnes, looked fine, bad
light; in another Presentation in the Temple - exquisite Titian's clearly
taken from it - all Tintoret. R. of the door an exquisite Cima Virgin
enthroned with a canopy of architecture and boughs, a lovely
landscape, and wild strawberries beneath the feet of the saints.
Lunch. Lesson. Out at 4 and after a little shopping to Dr Van
Sommeren's where we had a most pleasant tea - he was ill poor
dear. Presently in came Madame Wiel and Mr Montalba - the latter
walked away with us to the end of the Piazza and back. Took Vittorio
and went across to the Giudecca to Miss Macy's. Clear and
wonderful. Dear little woman with a delightful long attic looking out to
Venice [Venezia] on one side and the Lido on the other. Wonderful
view, the Lagoon quite still and all reflections looking as if they were
solid. Streaked with red and grey from the sunset. Had tea and she
showed us her modellings and gave me a column of the Duke's
Palace. Tea before the open wood fire. In came Miss Atkinson, Miss
Fletcher's friend, and a Miss Mackenzie. As we rowed away the
Salute stood out dark against the sky where light lingered, looking flat
not solid and San Giorgio divine catching the faint light. All the Piazza
lights reflected in the water. Dinner late.