Mon. 17. [17 April 1899] Up early and off by 7, a cavalcade of 8 mules
and several mule drivers. Over the Langada Pass; fine gorge, bare
and rocky, with planes growing in the river bed, just coming into leaf.
Made friends with a Spartan boy driving two mules laden with oil from
his father's farm which he was to sell in Kalamata [Kalamai]. He
spoke English having been in America 2 years. From the top of the
pass fine view of Taygetus [Taiyetos Oros] covered with snow.
About an hour down we came to "the city of Lada" as my Spartan
said. There we lunched. Very pretty girl in the house. The Spartan
had an awful time with his oil, one skin began to split and he had to
mend it, emptying the oil. Nevertheless we came upon him lower in
the village with the skin all broken and half the oil spilt. Long down
and up; bare desolate hills. Very hot. At last we crossed the shoulder
and saw down to Kalamata and the sea, not very pretty however.
Stopped at a mud hovel and had tea, very hot. Got to Kalamata by 6
and stayed at an inn, not uncomfortable but lots of fleas. Dined at a
Restaurant opposite. A poor little German woman was chambermaid
there, we talked across the street, to her delight. Walked about the
town in the moonlight. Beastly hole.