Thurs. 7. [7 December 1899] Came into town at 9.30 with Mr v. L [van Lennep], bright and cold. Sent my luggage to Fragiacomo and did various business in the town. Went all through the bazaars which are very fascinating and bought rahat Lakoum[?]; drank coffee etc. Several very pictureque old Turkish khans, one on the foundations of a Greek fort. At 12 parted from Mr v. L. washed at the hotel and lunched with the Cumberbatches. A sister of hers was there, a sort of Smyrniot, and his mother, an Englishwoman. Mr C. very agreeable - they were all nice. They had been buying horrors in the bazaars to send to England. At 2 took a kavass, picked up my luggage and went off to my boat, the Rossia. Small, but I am very comfortably lodged in a deck cabin. The Captain is a cheery old bird, fat with pig's eyes and many tongues. The other passengers are an American Catholic priest called FitzGerald, tall grey sallow and earnest, but much more like an American than a priest - I shd have thought the combination impossible - a Russian engineer, and 400 Russian pilgrims. These live on deck, bring all their provisions with them and are a most picturesque horde. At dusk their popes lead the prayers and the people chant the responses. One woman walked all the way from Omsk, starting last March! There are also a few nondescript Turks and Russians, second class. We reached Chios [Khios] at 11 and stayed an hour in violent rain.